Upholstery Part I
I know, I have a lot of work scheduled for the Mustang. This includes interior work and yes maybe doing it all at once would be a good idea. But I drive it a couple of times a week and the seat is getting worse. So I decided it needed to be fixed.
1st collector for The Problem
Follow my videos on vodpod
The kit is from TMI and I think I purchased it from a Mustang parts dealer, but I don’t recall which one. Here’s a couple of videos on it.
1st collector for kit
Follow my videos on vodpod
kit2, posted with vodpod
What I noticed is the black piping. I know that the car was re-uphostered before I purchased it, so I’m guessing that this was not original, at least they don’t make them in the reproduction world.
Coming up is the removal of the seat.
Thanks for reading.
Look what I have
351 Cleveland CJ head!! They are in great shape. Just look at those ports!!!!
Going to make some hps that for sure.
So I’m weaving my way through the spec for all of the mods for what some folks think it a toss away car. 1970 was still in the muscle era and the ’70 coupe was the runt of the litter for Mustangs. It had to fight for space with the Bosses and the Mach 1s and really it was lost in the mix. That’s why I love this car.
If you’ve followed my blog you know that it started life as the 250 straight 6 engine and now sports a .030 bored 302, but it needs more. You might be thinking…”Dude…you love the car but you want to make it more like the Boss or a Mach 1.” To that I say, “Well yeah…but no.” I want to make it the car it could have been, it’s not like it’s a station wagon…it’s a sports car, with less sport than its bigger siblings.
For the first set of mods I did what most project manager do, plan it out right down to the documentation for the specs for every mod. For this set of mods I’ll do the same.
I’ll share parts of the documentation here on this page of my blog and find a place for readers to be able to download the template.
However for this entry this entry I wanted to cover some mod options. None of these are firm but all are being looked at.
From my list one of the first things do is to add some heat protection and sound deadening. The amount of heat that comes from the current 302 is pretty intense and as I boost the power with new heads and an intake it’s going to run hotter. I want to keep that heat outside. Of course here in AZ the car is 120 degree before you even start it.
Of course budget is always an issue…yes average guy – average (below average) budget. There are kits out here by Quiet Ride Solutions/AcoustiShield. A complete kit runs about $700. There are various sub kits are available and you can pick the area you want to cover. Now these are all pre-cut for your specific model but there is an alternative. You can by the brand name Dynamate for about 130 bucks for 9 18”x 32” pieces, that is about 35 sq. feet of mate. One other alternative brought to my attention by a fellow Corvette owner was to check at your local big box hardware/lumber/house stuff supplier (Home Depot or Lowes type) stores for the same material, he redid his older Vette for must less than $700. You gonna have to some cutting, but that’s have the fun.
Now the concern I have it how much to do? I’m not sure I need to do the trunk floor, but I probably will, but my real issue is the roof. My headliner is in perfect condition and taking it down risks having to replace it. However, it’s hot here in Southern Arizona and stuffing the top will help keep the car cooler.
What do you think? Let me know.
Thanks for reading.
Byron McElfresh December 6 at 9:09pm Report
I seen your asking for advice on heads for a 302. I built a 302 that was .040″
over bore, The larger hyd. roller ford performance cam, used edelbrock rpm
heads, i did a little clean up and evened out the valve bowls, flat top
pistons, a 750 holley Street advegner carb, rpm intake, 1 3/4″ headers, and it
made 416 hp at 6000 rpm, and 349 tq. on the dyno. in the 60 Falcon with 3.73
gears, and a 4 speed,( the guy really needs an auto trans or get a shifter that
won’t granny shift speed wise!!!) But he still ran a 12.61 at gateway.
Wow, that’s pretty good. My 302 is bore .030. Hooker headers and 65O holley. I
wasn’t planning on changing out the cam. Now the rear end great. I just can’t
do the automatic trans though!
Byron McElfreshDecember 6, 2010 at 11:43pm
Re: Hi Tim,the 302
lol-the reason I think the guy should o to an auto trans is the ultra slow
shifts he makes with the old toploader! It’s a very painfully slow 2-3
shift!!!You can almost hear the multiple double clutches! yikes! lol
Tim Sweet December 6 at 10:11pm
Philip Daly December 6 at 8:58pm Report
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:36pm
Thanks Philip, But won’t that reduce compression? How much would you gain with
Terry Wallace December 6 at 8:47pm Report
Ford Motorsports usually has some really great deals on 302 old school engines.
I would check there first. When it comes to flow numbers im finding through my
own testing at my machinists shop,,,,,most numbers are bullshit. beware and
test flow numbers using a reputable shop.
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:35pm
Thank Terry. I’m with you on the numbers game…happens a lot even with
Bill Rice December 6 at 8:46pm Report
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, Great gains in HP and Torque.
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:42pm
Thanks Bill – what do you think those number might look like over a 302, bore
.030, hooker headers?
Corvette Hangout December 6 at 8:28pm Report
C&C aluminum heads with small chambers to get higher compression larger valves
and install 150 shot of nitros.. CorvetteHangout
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:44pm
I can get behind the higher compression..but I haven’t decided on NOS yet.
1969 and 1970 Boss 302 heards and intake will work great.
Tim Sweet That was a thought I had as well.
2 seconds ago · Like
Roy Oberg Aluminum is the way to go, go with a smaller combustion chamber that will give you more compression and less chance of spark knock.
about an hour ago · LikeUnlike
Tim Sweet 100% on board with the smaller chambers.
2 seconds ago · Like
What you will see unfold in these updates is an exercise in project management for the modifications. When I originally scoped out the components for the 302 that replaced the 250, I used a similar process, but very detailed. I wasn’t overly concerned with improvements other than what a dropped in 302 would provide over that tired old straight 6. (Clearly..I left the 3 speed manual trans in it.)
But this time it’ll be different. There is a lot to do and unlike the previous rebuild, money will be tight and free time limited. The main goal I have is to keep the car in operation in between stages of modification. This will take a clear and well laid out plan, where issues similar to the installation of the dash pad before the pillar post trim arrived (doh!), could be more than just a cost in time.
Below is a high level sketch of what I’d like accomplish with the Mustang. I’ll update this list with more details as I figure which brands, sizes and the like that will be used. Over on my Facebook pages I have already received some feedback and suggestions and I’ll post these up here in some cleverly titled entry.
So give me your suggestions or opinions and as the progression goes even tell me if you don’t like the choice and why.
Brakes and Suspension:
– Upgrade to 4 wheel disc (Brand and size TBD)
– Replace front and rear stabilizer bars (Brand and size TBD)
– Control arms already replaced
– Rebuild power steering
– Shocks already upgraded
– Add cut-out before mufflers
– Extend tailpipes to exit rear
No other changes anticipated
– Addition of upgrade dash and interior lights
– Possible upgrade of all gauges
– Replace front seat belts with 3 point harness
– Carpet replaced
– Seats re-upholstered (upgrade to Leather/Cloth?)
– Paint lower doors
– Tilt steering wheel (Flamming River?)
– Option 1 – Manual 4 speed with Hurts shifter
– Option 2 – T5 5 speed
– Rear Differential * Unsure if upgrade is possible or required
* 302 stays
– Replace intake (Brand and size TBD)
– Replace 650 Holley (Holley 750 Avenger)
– Replacement of heads for more performance (undecided)
– Add custom mounting and tension for Power Steering/Alternator
– Remove Fan and replace with electric
– Add more chrome to engine (but not too much Bling..hate too much Bling)
Paint stays except:
– Blacked out rear light deck
– Blacked out grill
– Black Front Spoiler
– Black side Boss 302 Stripe (w/o the Boss) (dependent on hood choice)
– Magnum 500 wheels (newer version, not originals)
Hood lay outs:
O.K., let’s hear your thoughts. They will automatically appear to the right of this posting and I’ll add the good ones in the update posts.
Thanks for reading.