Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. With the floor pans welding, sealing and coating finished the next step was to apply the heat and sound barrier. This is really an easy project and the benefits are noticeable.
The tools are pretty simple:
Hard Rubber Roller
A pair of good scissors, marker, a utility knife and a measuring implement (used both a ruler and measuring tape)
You won’t see step by step in this post. It maybe the most straight forward part of restoring the floor. Some may say that adding heat and sound proofing isn’t really part of the restoration. I’d have to disagree. These cars had an underlayment that served as heat and sound barrier. It wasn’t much and no where near the effectiveness as new aftermarket materials. I actually purchase the aftermarket underlayment that mimicked the original and it was close to what I pulled out of the car when I removed the carpeting. If you are going for factory correct/concours restoration it is what you should use but it’s was not going to last as long as the new material. In fact, after fitting it to the floor and see how easily it tore, I tossed it out – not great for the budget but I needed something a little more durable and effective – especially with the heat out here in Arizona.
The process is pretty simple, lay it out, measure, cut, peel off the back and stick it to the floor. No loose dirt or rust, get that all removed before you start. Once it’s down and in place roll it with a hard rubber roller. Keep the wrinkles to a minimum and make sure you get good contact with the surface.
This is the lay out.
You can still see the backing that will be pealed off.
I started off with Eastwood’s X-Mat, which is good material and should work just fine. However, I didn’t order much and switched to Cool It Thermo Tec. It came in larger rolls, less shipping cost, lower over call cost and I could get it quicker with Amazon. Among guys I know that have used various products they recommended it.
Honestly, I did some measuring (mainly to see if the left over pieces would fit with overlap), but not much was required. I laid out the strips, gave some over lap and trimmed most of it with a utility knife. Here are some pics:
Rolled out.
Rolled out.
My son stopped by to help out for a few hours. Ryan removed brace/guides that keep the back of the rear seat from sliding left or right. BTW – ensure you have old clothes on, the tar like substance on the underside is messy!! Thanks Ryan for the help!
I also covered these areas.
There was no barrier between the seat and the trunk ares when I removed the rear seat but I’m sure there must have been at one time. This was not a fold down seat.
Covered area B below the trunk pass through and A the wheel well.
This area is where the rear class would roll down but they don’t in the SportsRoof. So I put a layer of COOL IT behind the support and adhered it to the inside of quarter panel.
Here’s what that looked like when it was done.
Arrows mark the cut outs needed for the clips/tabs that hold the back and bottom of the seat and seat belt mounts. “A” (up in the right hand corner of the right picture) is the brace that keeps the back of the rear seat from sliding left and right. Ryan removed those (rather than cutting around them) and screwed them back down after putting the Cool It on.
Used the utility knife to do the same cut outs for seat and seat belt bolt to pass through and the groves for the seat belt warning wiring – yes they are getting hooked backup and the floor body plugs/drains.
A is the channel for the seat belt warning light (a light on the dash would illuminate – driver’s side was a buzzer) you can see the wire laying here. B is the body/floor drain plug. This is before covering.
Again A is the seat belt warning wire channel and B is the drain plug. It’s easy to just use the utility knife to make those cuts.
Thanks for view the progress on #ProjectSportsRoof. Coming up next is a look at the carpet install.
Other duties happen outside of working on #ProjectSportsRoof…like yard work!!!! ! While attempting to tame the foliage in the backyard on Sunday, my electric …
As I work on getting more restoration work on #ProjectSportsRoof I thought I’d share a couple of Mustang things that popped up. There are a number of reasons I …
In these next two videos, you’ll see just how ‘off’ these fenders are in some areas and surprisingly how well they fit in other areas. If you have an experience or a hit for anyone taking on this part of a restoration – drop a comment here and we’ll share them. https://youtu.be/Ga9EHbDpSfg https://youtu.be/FBKs7EG4kK0 Thanks …
As I work on getting more restoration work on #ProjectSportsRoof I thought I’d share a couple of Mustang things that popped up.
There are a number of reasons I love Ford products, in particular Mustangs. One of those is the fact that it didn’t need the bailout money a few years back, choosing to tough it out and some of the innovative/purposeful special purpose options.
I recently received my Ford Mustang ‘Go Further’ brochure. I’m not including the 310 hp they are dragging out of the 2.3L EcoBoost (I’ve often said “I don’t want anything on my dash that says Eco!!!!” but wow to the 320 lb-ft of torque. Don’t even think bout the 435 hp and 400 lbs-ft of torque from the 5.0L in the GT…come on!!!! I can do with out the heated and cooled seat…meh… However, the Track Apps, MagneRide and launch control are bomb.
The most #awesome purpose built is the Electronic Line-Lock!!!! Come on…that’s what every weekend racing warrior (and spirited every day driving!!) wants a car manufacture to be thinking about!!! The Electronic Line-Lock keeps the front brakes locked while you ‘warm up’ the Mustang’s rear tires….come on I don’t have that in my Corvette!!! But maybe I can figure it out for my 1973 ‘Stang.
It looks something like this…exactly like this:
Here’s a great little destination (after you warmed up the tires). Located at the corner of “No Where” (Hwy 90) and “U’r Lost” (Hwy 82) is this little place called Mustang Crossing.
Great place for a 1973 Mustang photo shoot!!!
Thanks for stopping by. More coming up on #ProjectSportsRoof.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. I run my car projects much like I run my IT projects. You always have to know where to start and know the end game. As with any project that isn’t being built from scratch, in other word, you have to work with what you’ve got, …
If it seemed to you like I was never going to get to the end of the floor pan part of #ProjectSportsRoof, you weren’t alone, it seemed that way to me as well. With power plant problems (Knock..Knock…Who’s There? It’s the bottom end of your 351 Cleveland!!!), digit maiming (Injury Time Out – 1973 Mustang SportsRoof) and life occurring in between the actually completion of the install and getting to the blogging/sharing part of this project. So here is the final two posts.
After my neighbor Dan Thomas skillfully tacked the panels in place it was time to seal the seams and give the passenger cabin floor a coating.
Here is what I used to carry out the next to last task.
The Eastwood seam sealing putty was warmed up by rolling it around in the palm of my hand and then wedged into the seams like those indicted in this pic:
If you recall we just tack welded the panel so there were a number of seams that need some putty.
I roughly sanded and vacuumed the rest of the floor and then used the truck bed liner from a rattle can and made several pass over the entire floor.
Take a look:
This was just the first coat.
This leaves the application of the heat and sound barrier and replacing the carpet to finish up the this part of the project.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. Floor pan are ready to be welded into place on the 1973 Mustang Sportsroof.
Now I’m not a welder and there was no way I was going to experiment on the Mustang. So I enlisted the assistance of my neighbor Dan Thomas. Dan is quite the artist with his welding and metal work and although this build didn’t require much fancy design work…just quality welds and Dan delivered.
The goal here is to tack the fitted metal patch panels in place. The welds need to be strong and in the proper places. Now you might say, “Hey did you say that the Mustang is a unit-body and that the floor needed to be strong since that’s what holds the car together – mostly?” Yes that is true, however this Mustang will have frame connectors added to make this reasonable.
Just a note about the welding, you have to use gas with the mig…the metal for the patch panels are not that thick and the portions of the floor you are welding it to are old…so you need the added gas.
To start with I needed to strip the tack locations down to bare metal. You can see some of that in this image.
Here a little video clip of the work. Note: Don’t adjust your device’s volume….there is no sound on the first part of the video…well there was, but it was mostly me chewing gum…not very cool to listen too.
Here is some of Dan’s most excellent work.
Thanks Dan!!!
Thanks for following along with the project. Drop me any questions, comments and/or your thoughts!!!! Coming up next is the coating of the floor and the heat and sound barrier.
Well win some and you lose some. If you’ve seen my other posts related the replacement of the points and condenser for the 351C you’ll notice that I gave conversion high marks. This was all based on the years of use I got out of the conversion I did on …
Welcome back to the final few posts of the floor pan replacement for #ProjectSportsRoof.
Let’s get right down to it.
I realized that I didn’t catch much of the work on the floor plan under the right rear seat. That was really a lot of work. They don’t make a panel for that on the 1973 Mustang SportsRoof. So I had to use a foot well panel and “customize” it to fit. See here:
This shot is that pre-welding and it shows the hole above the muffler, under the seat. (Sorry for the short clip)
This image shows the customized foot well floor panel:
A lot of work went into forming that panel.
Yes it was tough to make it, there were a lot of cuts. (The tub there is Irish Spring soap – it keeps pack rats out of the Mustang while it’s parked!)
If you recall the left side of the car wasn’t bad at all and I replaced just the foot well panel. It cut the same as the right side and here it is in place. Here’s a little recap of the work done.
Next up is the welding, coating and heat/sound barrier.
Hey, welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof (1973 Mustang). We are working through the rusted floor pans and I’m about to make the cut for removing rust from …
The option that, perhaps, makes the most sense is to rebuild the existing engine. These days there are so many rebuilding scenarios, it can make your head spin and really lighten you wallet. With each one of the scenarios brings with it even more decisions and a host of mathematical calculations.
The major concern is just how bad it might be in the block. You can see much with just the heads removed, but what I could see of the cylinders and piston heads, seemed serviceable. Scored cylinder walls – bad; just trashed bearings – not so bad. This is the first unknown you need to know. From this point you’ll know the cost of just making it run again and how much $$$ you need or have left in the budget for any upgrades.
For me I don’t think I’m in this for just a ‘repair’- e.g. bad bearings – replace them and snap it back together.
Option 1: Rebuild it just like it is. Simply get a $600.00 kit and replace everything and put it back together – same heads, same intake nothing changes other than the knock goes away.
Typical 351C Rebuild Kit
Option 2: Rebuild it better. For my 351C 2v, the simplest way is to add the kit and give it more room to breath. Add a 4 barrel carb and matching intake.
Option 3: Rebuild it bigger. Have the engine bore to 0.030 or 0.040 and find the matching kit (you can buy the rebuild kits to match the new bore) and add a 4 barrel carb and matching intake.
Option 2 and 3 give you more decisions you’ll have to make. How much horse power and torque will this changes make? Can you existing stall converter and transmission handle that increase? (My concern as I have C6 automatic) Will you need to change the gearing in the rear end to optimize the new power? Will this new power impact handling or frame/body? (The concern here keeping that body from twisting/rolling – my Mustang still has the sub-frame – being a unit body – installation of sub-frame connectors is on my list.) You are looking at a few Benjamin’s to make this all happen like it should – all based on the basic rebuild direction.
So these are some of the considerations I’m weight now for #ProjectSportsRoof.
I’ve done all the clean up and all the adjustments necessary to get a good reading on the health of the ’72 351C engine in my 1973 Mustang. The next step is to check the compression. First up was to warm the car a bit and then pull the plugs. Here’s what the …
This is the wrap up on the compression testing for the 1973 Mustang w/ a 1972 351 Cleveland power plant. You’ll might have notices that I referred to the remote tester, which is my code for remote starter…yeah…that’s it!!! All of these tests were dry test and I should have done a …
Other duties happen outside of working on #ProjectSportsRoof…like yard work!!!!! While attempting to tame the foliage in the backyard on Sunday, my electric hedge clippers became self-aware and in true Terminator fashion, exacted revenge on two fingers on my left hand – index and middle. (Yes I have pictures and no I won’t post them here.) Pretty sure I taught the neighborhood new curse words.
Of course this necessitated a trip to the ER, much to my dismay and my wife’s. It took the doctor a fair amount of time sew them up – 31 stitches and to pass the time the doc and I discussed cars – specifically his new Tesla. So over all it was a nice break from the average weekend routine and I scored some pain meds to boot!! (HA,HA).
I’ll be out of commission for the next couple of weeks so maybe I can catch up on some blogging. Might be a bit optimistic, considering how long it has taken to just type this post!!!
Note to self: Don’t throw out the next door hanger for a landscape service.
I am slurring my typing, meds are kicking in …..SO…thanks for reading.
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and
fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!! Final Fit for foot-well …
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and
fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!! Final Fit for foot-well …
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. I run my car projects much like I run my IT projects. You always have to know where to start and know the end game. As with any project that isn’t being built from scratch, in other word, you have to work with what you’ve got, …
After spending $$$ to get my 2v heads done right and after driving my 73 Stang for about 50 miles, the Cleveland has developed a knock in the bottom half of the engine.
It’s not uncommon when restoring cars that an undiscovered issue pops up and changes the entire project plan. But the dilemma I have now has multiple facets.
First there’s what to do about the engine. Rebuild it if possible? Replace with a short block, reusing the 2v heads? Buy a crate engine? Or set it on fire in the driveway? Each one of these options have it’s own inherent hurdles and impacts the timeline differently.
Second there’s issue with the old conundrum “Well as long as….I might as well do the ….” In this case it read like this… “As long as the engine out, I should, really, redo the engine bay.” That’s has is own timeline with the cleaning and sanding and priming and painting and replacing clips/fastener….etc.
So let’s discuss the engine.
There are a few “known knowns” (thank you Donald Rumsfeld!!!):
The current 351C engine isn’t original to the car – in fact the car was born with 302. Why is that important? I don’t have to worry about the matching numbers thing, that ship sailed sometime ago. Basically anything goes.
Not rebuilding/replacing is not an option.
Budget. Although there is no set dollar amount, there is restraint how much can be spend in a given time.
Then there are the “known unknowns”
Is it the cam?
Is it just the bearings?
Are the cylinder walls serviceable?
What do I want this engine to be?
Options: (just a few)
Option 1: A friend of mine suggested a crate engine – just order one from Summitt Racing or Jegs. Make all the power I want.
Ford Racing 363 C.I.D. 500 HP Boss Crate Engines – $8439.97
– Discussion: $$$ (Could stop right there with this one.) Getting a 400+ HP turn-key crate would be just awesome. In my option that is what these Mustangs were meant to be. (ching-ching) Getting tons of power to the rear wheels with the current automatic C6 transmission will required a possible rebuild and an upgraded torque converter. (ching-ching again). But having a Cleveland in the engine bay is way cool!! I grew up in GM family… there weren’t a lot of discussion about Ford product and anytime I heard “Ford talk” a 351 Cleveland engine was mentioned. I do like the look of it under the hood the are wider than the Windsor family of motors. Keeping it a 351C V2 will be less expensive and you can make good power from it if you do it right.
– Conclusion for Option 1: Not gonna happen!!
Option 2: Find a good used 351C and install that
– Discussion: This is a good possibility. That’s already happened to #ProjectSportsRoof. The 302 was replaced with a 351 (whether it was a Windsor or Cleveland is not known) as this was the engine the previous owner hauled it out of a field with. As it turned out that engine was seized and the current engine was found and installed (along with the used C6 trans). It may be tough to find one. If and when you do the mileage shouldn’t be a known unknown and you need to determine the condition as best you can by listening to it run. If it is just sitting on the shelf, would you perform a “trust-fall” with the seller? Bottom line is a used engine “is like a box of chocolates”…you might end right back up where you are now. Frankly this would be my last option.
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!!
Final Fit for foot-well.
This video is pretty comprehensive so I’m just going to just let it roll.
A couple of things worth noting. The “flap” what was clearly not going to work and leaving the sheet metal running up the side of the transmission/drive shaft tunnel was going to give too much flex in that panel, as the welds would be pretty high. It’s important to have that solid because as most must guys and gals know the Mustang of this vintage only have sub-frames which lease the floor as the most important body stabilization part of the car. I will eventually put sub-frame connectors under this beast.
In case you are wondering what that electrical wiring is to the right of foot-well that is for the seat belt switch which when pressure is applied to the seat bottom there must be a connection completed by the seat-belt male end and female end to turn off the “Seat Belt” light and or buzzer.
I have a lot more coming up on the floor pans so stay tuned!!!!
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. We beginning the actual work on the vacuum system on the projects 351C starting with the valve assembly distributor ( the …
