While I’m currently working on the project plan for all the modifications, I still get the urge to spend a beautiful winter’s day doing some wrenching. Oh…here in southern Arizona you wait for winter days like today, Sunny and near 70 degrees…oh yes..perfect day for being outside and working on your projects. ( Don’t hate me ’cause I’m warm!!!)
Modifications pending, there are still little things that can be done. A few weeks ago I noticed a loose fender bolt. Now normally these bolts are screwed in to clip/slide on nuts (some times called “short nuts” but I just couldn’t put that in the title) that are slid over the edge of one of pieces you need to hold together.
Slip-on or Short Nut
So if a bolt becomes loose it is often the cause of vibration, and if left unattended you can actually loose the slip-on nut. Unless…..it doesn’t have one and a traditional nut has been used.
A while back I ordered a couple of bags of bolts and short nuts for my Mustang and today I decided to spend a few minute and replace the loose one and check the others.
What I found was a bit odd. Three of the bolts on right fender (do I have to say right “front” fender? I hear that all the time, but I grew up knowing that fenders were in the front and quarter-panels were in the rear.) did not have the short nuts, but rather the tradition bolts. I checked the left “front” (just in case) fender and found them to all have slip-on nuts.
I can understand that some where in the 41 year life span (Oh…incidentally..I’m technically the 3rd owner, with the to previous owners beginning a mother, daughter combo) of my ’70 coupe that someone took it a part, lost the slip-on nuts and yes it was just a driver car so that’s possible. However, on closer inspection I noticed that the normal slots that would allow the assembler to slide the short nut on were not there for the three bolt holes at the front of the fender (or at the front of the front fender….ok sorry, enough of that).
Square Slot that allows for the installation (Left of the bolt)
Bolt Holes without the slot.
So I wondering how much after-market parts are actually on the my Mustang. When I had the car repainted, we did discover that the right door was replaced (paint underneath was blue) so why not the fender? The options I have are to, remove the entire fender and if the holes are not blocked by aftermarket fender then I’ll have to consider using the traditional bolt and nut or I’d have to cut the slots.
Now that’s not the only aftermarket issues I discovered. Those two bags of bolts and short nuts…..yeah..they aren’t the right size. Although the are sold as “fitting 1968-1970 Mustangs” the original are 1/2 ” nuts and these are 7/16″. Well yeah..they’ll fit…heck there are all kinds down the street at ACE Hardware that will fit too!!!
As part of the mods and upgrades for my 70 Mustang, I plan on replacing all the carpet. Before I do that however, I’m going to lay down some heat and sound proofing (but that is another post).
As I start project planning, I’m looking around for parts and materials, as well as any helpful hints. (If you have any at any time, drop me a comment.) Although certain portions of the restro-mod will have to be done together, like carb and intake or heads and cam (yes I’m all four will be done at the same time), many can be accomplished separately, like adding the heat/sound proofing and the carpeting, before upholstery of the seats. In the Mustang getting the seats out are easy enough (keep in mind my goal is to not have the car tied up too long between stages) so replacing the seats after the carpet installation, isn’t a problem.
As a reminder, the mods will be done in adherence to budget, time and events. So there maybe a need to move between different phases to accommodate either 3 of those factors.
O.K., so where was I, oh yeah..carpet shopping.
As I looking on-line for the best place for ordering carpeting, began to notice a lot of choices. I start thinking “I’m going to have call up on deck my personal award-winning interior designer (that would be my wife – by profession…no not wife by profession although I’m sure thinks it’s her 3rd career, but Interior Designer by profession). Here is a little bit of what I found:
Plush Cut Pile
Ultra-Plush Cut Pile
Neon Cut Pile
100% Nylon Loop
I’m thinking, “holy cow!!!…What the heck is this?!! Ultra-Plush Cut Pile? I’m not building a ’60 Love Van!!! Oh it gets better..yeah.. you guessed it samples!!!!!
Misty Gray
BuckSkin
My favorite - Cinnabar
Oh..come on!!! Cinnabar!!!! Really!!?? Um..yup. Oh and there were many more, like Medium Gray and Silver Mist and Nutmeg and Fire Thorn!!!! I’m not kidding.
So I’m looking round to make sure know one’s looking over my shoulder (as I’m doing this over my lunch at work..on my personal smart phone…just in case “they” are reading!!!) All the time I thinking…”It’s black..all I know is that it’s black!”
Who knew that there was that much to look at? Not this Average Guy.
Luckily I found this snippet on one site and it all became clear:
Plush Cut Pile
Our nylon cut pile is constructed from 100% first quality yarn and is similar to what is found in most cars since 1974. It is tufted on a 1/8 gauge machine with 14 ounces of yarn per square yard. It is dyed using the finest dyes available and tested for ozone humidity fading & light fastness.
Ultra-Plush Cut Pile
This carpet is a super plush upgrade to our standard Cut Pile. A 100% nylon cut pile manufactured with over 40% more nylon fiber than our standard cut pile. It is dyed using the finest dyes available and tested for ozone humidity fading & light fastness.
Ok..still not sure here!!!
Neon Cut Pile
Our Neon Cut Pile colors are a great look if you want to make a statement! Although these are not stock colors, they would be appropriate for all applications. There is an additional 15% charge for all applications made with Neon Cut Pile.
What…not stock colors!!!??!!! What? Are you sure that is color
wasn’t stock? It’s Pink!!!!
And the clouds parted and it all became clear. The very last one was this:
100% Nylon Loop
A 100% nylon loop. This material is appropriate for pre-1975 applications only, and was the original type construction used in 1969-1973 Mustangs.
What you will see unfold in these updates is an exercise in project management for the modifications. When I originally scoped out the components for the 302 that replaced the 250, I used a similar process, but very detailed. I wasn’t overly concerned with improvements other than what a dropped in 302 would provide over that tired old straight 6. (Clearly..I left the 3 speed manual trans in it.)
But this time it’ll be different. There is a lot to do and unlike the previous rebuild, money will be tight and free time limited. The main goal I have is to keep the car in operation in between stages of modification. This will take a clear and well laid out plan, where issues similar to the installation of the dash pad before the pillar post trim arrived (doh!), could be more than just a cost in time.
Below is a high level sketch of what I’d like accomplish with the Mustang. I’ll update this list with more details as I figure which brands, sizes and the like that will be used. Over on my Facebook pages I have already received some feedback and suggestions and I’ll post these up here in some cleverly titled entry.
So give me your suggestions or opinions and as the progression goes even tell me if you don’t like the choice and why.
Brakes and Suspension:
– Upgrade to 4 wheel disc (Brand and size TBD)
– Replace front and rear stabilizer bars (Brand and size TBD)
– Control arms already replaced
– Rebuild power steering
– Shocks already upgraded
Exhaust:
– Add cut-out before mufflers
– Extend tailpipes to exit rear
No other changes anticipated
Interior:
– Addition of upgrade dash and interior lights
– Possible upgrade of all gauges
– Replace front seat belts with 3 point harness
– Carpet replaced
– Seats re-upholstered (upgrade to Leather/Cloth?)
– Paint lower doors
– Tilt steering wheel (Flamming River?)
Training:
Transmission
– Option 1 – Manual 4 speed with Hurts shifter
– Option 2 – T5 5 speed
– Rear Differential * Unsure if upgrade is possible or required
Engine:
* 302 stays
– Replace intake (Brand and size TBD)
– Replace 650 Holley (Holley 750 Avenger)
– Replacement of heads for more performance (undecided)
– Add custom mounting and tension for Power Steering/Alternator
– Remove Fan and replace with electric
– Add more chrome to engine (but not too much Bling..hate too much Bling)
Exterior:
Paint stays except:
– Blacked out rear light deck
– Black Hood stripe (1970 Boss 1970 302 or 1970 Mach 1) – See images below – What do you think?
– Blacked out grill
– Black Front Spoiler
– Black side Boss 302 Stripe (w/o the Boss) (dependent on hood choice)
– Magnum 500 wheels (newer version, not originals)
Hood lay outs:
Mach 1 Hood...Perhaps my favorite...currently not considering adding a scoop
Boss 302 Hood lay out
O.K., let’s hear your thoughts. They will automatically appear to the right of this posting and I’ll add the good ones in the update posts.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
Readers comments and suggestions:
Byron McElfresh December 6 at 9:09pm Report
I seen your asking for advice on heads for a 302. I built a 302 that was .040″
over bore, The larger hyd. roller ford performance cam, used edelbrock rpm
heads, i did a little clean up and evened out the valve bowls, flat top
pistons, a 750 holley Street advegner carb, rpm intake, 1 3/4″ headers, and it
made 416 hp at 6000 rpm, and 349 tq. on the dyno. in the 60 Falcon with 3.73
gears, and a 4 speed,( the guy really needs an auto trans or get a shifter that
won’t granny shift speed wise!!!) But he still ran a 12.61 at gateway.
Wow, that’s pretty good. My 302 is bore .030. Hooker headers and 65O holley. I
wasn’t planning on changing out the cam. Now the rear end great. I just can’t
do the automatic trans though!
Byron McElfreshDecember 6, 2010 at 11:43pm
Re: Hi Tim,the 302
lol-the reason I think the guy should o to an auto trans is the ultra slow
shifts he makes with the old toploader! It’s a very painfully slow 2-3
shift!!!You can almost hear the multiple double clutches! yikes! lol
Tim Sweet December 6 at 10:11pm
good point
————————————————————————
Philip Daly December 6 at 8:58pm Report
351w
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:36pm
Thanks Philip, But won’t that reduce compression? How much would you gain with
351w heads?
—————————————————-
Terry Wallace December 6 at 8:47pm Report
Ford Motorsports usually has some really great deals on 302 old school engines.
I would check there first. When it comes to flow numbers im finding through my
own testing at my machinists shop,,,,,most numbers are bullshit. beware and
test flow numbers using a reputable shop.
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:35pm
Thank Terry. I’m with you on the numbers game…happens a lot even with
Corvettes. Regards
—————————————————————–
Bill Rice December 6 at 8:46pm Report
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, Great gains in HP and Torque.
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:42pm
Thanks Bill – what do you think those number might look like over a 302, bore
Corvette Hangout December 6 at 8:28pm Report
C&C aluminum heads with small chambers to get higher compression larger valves
and install 150 shot of nitros.. CorvetteHangout
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:44pm
I can get behind the higher compression..but I haven’t decided on NOS yet.
Thanks.
_————————————————————————-
Fatherlarry Monaco
1969 and 1970 Boss 302 heards and intake will work great.
Tim Sweet That was a thought I had as well.
2 seconds ago · Like
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Roy Oberg Aluminum is the way to go, go with a smaller combustion chamber that will give you more compression and less chance of spark knock.
about an hour ago · LikeUnlike
#
Tim Sweet 100% on board with the smaller chambers.
2 seconds ago · Like
Well, I don’t know about every car guy, but I do know what I like.
Some of my favorites are abandon car art, but I enjoy a lot of other subject matters as well.
If you look to the right of this post you’ll see one of my favorites. My old 1984 C4 red Corvette, closely following what would be my future car(unbeknownst to me at the time) a black C6 Corvette. I have one other favorite and that’s a rendering of the interior of my 1970 Mustang.
My 1970 Mustang
I’ve known this starving artist (he’s not really starving, my wife won’t allow that) his entire life. Ryan has a great eye for car art. (Shameless plug. This image and the image of the Corvettes, nicely framed, make great gifts, tis the season.)
While tooling a round a little town in Southern Arizona this past Black Friday (Nov 26), I happened to meet an artist named Scott Taft and had to purchase a picture of 1959 Chevy that he had transferred to metal. You can see his work at http://www.fanartreview.com/sctaft.
One other web site I ran across was this one, it’s got a little more bling, but some very nicely done pieces. It’s called Car Art Work and you can see their offerings @ www.carartwork.biz.
Car Art Work
Just for the record I don’t receive any money, free stuff or benefit in any way (other than a big thank from my son if one of his images sell) for mentioning these artists or companies. This just stuff I like.
11/10/14 – The first Dodge is produced and on the same day 11 years later Ford built its first Tri-Motor airplane.
Not the plane:
1914 - 4 Door Dodge Touring
This is the plane:
Fords 1925 Tri-Plane
11/11/1940 – The first Jeep
1940 Jeeps
11/12/1908 – GM takes over Oldsmobile.
11/25/1844 – Mr. Benz was more in Karlsruhe, Germany (Been there, the wine is excellent, the beer is better and the food is OUTSTANDING!)
11/26/1966 -The DeTomaso Mangusta debuts
1966 DeTomaso Mangusta
11/27/1870 – Joe Mach’s birthday. Yeah…the guy that started MAC trucks. The company started when Joe and his brothers purchased a carriage and wagon company in Brooklyn, N.Y. The first vehicle they produced was a tour bus. (1900) Next up was rail cars and locomotives. At the time they used the name Manhattan. Somewhere between 1910 and 1911 the name changed to Mack at about that time the Mack brothers bought a truck company. Oh..in case you are wonder the Bulldog became their logo in 1922 and the name was changed to MACK Truck. When I was a very young, we called all tractor-trailer Mack Trucks.
1910 Mack Hook and Latter firetrucks
New Auto Factoid format.
The Ford Mustang sold 419,000 cars in the its first 12 months on the marked. That number trumped the 417,000 cars set by the 1960………………Ford Falcon!!!!
As with every car show there are some very good paint jobs. There are the cars that have a traditionally paint with flawless surfaces and deep ” you could shave in them” in them shine.
Then there are unique paint schemes, ghost flames or custom air brushed images.
Here are a few from a recent car show I attended.
Check out this custom Ford pick up.
Two Tone Black and Yellow...that's not all
Check out the bed!!!!
That is some great air brushing!!!
Check out this VW Bus.
Front view
Side View
And for really interesting paint jobs. Stop by the Bike section of the show.
Ghost Rider Bike
Even if you don’t like the paint you’ve got to appreciated the effort that goes into the work. Nothing but pure art.
Got a kool paint job on your ride? Drop me a pick.
A few big ones this week.
11/15/1977 – Ford sell its 100 millionth CAR. What was the car? A Mustang? One of the legendary F150s? Nope it was a 1978 Ford Fairmont Futura (the triple F).
Ford Fairmont Futura (The Triple F) Although some owners had an additional F to add.
The guy that started Honda Soichiro Honda was born 11/17/1906 in Japan.
11/18/1940 Buick produced it 4 millionth car.
http://ucapusa.com/heritage_buick.htm
1940 Buick Super Coupe
One day and 19 years later (11/19/1959) Ford stopped the production of the ugliest cars you’d love to own the “Edsel”.
I love going to car shows. I recently attended one of Tucson, AZ largest car shows called “Cops and Rodders” (for my 3rd year). It is huge by our standards, over 500 cars, trucks, military vehicles, emergency response vehicles and a lot more. Entering my cars is a lot of fun and getting to talk about them we complete strangers, often having nothing in common with you except that love of cars, is a great way to spend a day.
Besides having conversations with anyone that stops by, I enjoy wandering around the shows. There aren’t too many cars that don’t interest me. Oh I don’t really care for the tricked out PT Cruiser with the giant stereo or limo-Hummers (or any other SUV in that configuration), but there’s something about most cars I can find to like.
One of my favorite, all time favorite thing are the painted dash boards of the 60’s and earlier cars. The lines are clean, the surface is smooth and rather than dull down the interior it makes bright and colorful and the contract between the paint, the chrome that normally accompanies them and the gauges just stand out that much more.
Take this 1960’s Impala. It’s bright and clean. Not the dull, padded dashes of today’s cars. Yes..I get the safety aspects and that’s a good thing, but come on, look at this and say you don’t like it…I bet you can’t.
1960 Impala
It's a thing of beauty!!!!
Got a painted dash? Send me a pic and I’ll post it up.
