Auto Factoids for 11/7/2010 and Beyond

Catching up and finishing up Nov. 2010

11/10/14 – The first Dodge is produced and on the same day 11 years later Ford built its first Tri-Motor airplane.

Not the plane:

1914 - 4 Door Dodge Touring

This is the plane:

Fords 1925 Tri-Plane

11/11/1940 – The first Jeep

1940 Jeeps

11/12/1908 – GM takes over Oldsmobile.

11/25/1844 – Mr. Benz was more in Karlsruhe, Germany (Been there, the wine is excellent, the beer is better and the food is OUTSTANDING!)

11/26/1966 -The DeTomaso Mangusta debuts

1966 DeTomaso Mangusta

11/27/1870 – Joe Mach’s birthday. Yeah…the guy that started MAC trucks.  The company started when Joe and his brothers purchased a carriage and wagon company in Brooklyn, N.Y.  The first vehicle they produced was a tour bus. (1900)  Next up was rail cars and locomotives. At the time they used the name Manhattan.  Somewhere between 1910 and 1911 the name changed to Mack at about that time the Mack brothers bought a truck company.  Oh..in case you are wonder the Bulldog became their logo in 1922 and the name was changed to MACK Truck.  When I was a very young, we called all tractor-trailer Mack Trucks.

1910 Mack Hook and Latter firetrucks

New Auto Factoid format.

The Ford Mustang sold 419,000 cars in the its first 12 months on the marked. That number trumped the 417,000 cars set by the 1960………………Ford Falcon!!!!

1960 Falcon - 417,000 Sold First 12 months

Ford Mustang II Concept.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Looking for a Used Engine – Tips

When I began the restoration of my ’70 Mustang I knew that I wanted to replace the 250 straight six, with 175k miles on it, soon. I had several option, buy a new engine, buying rebuild or buying used.  I chose to buy a re-manufactured long block and add my own components.

The option of buying a used engine and rebuilding myself wasn’t an option (average guy, average space and average tools) but I would have enjoyed it.

If you are going to purchase a used engine, dragging out of a junk can save you even more.  But you’ve got to check it out before getting it home.

Here are a few tips that you can follow help prevent getting something home that the only real use it can server is to fill a corner the garage.

Now you aren’t going to be able to tear the engine down right there and look over all the parts  but you could do the following checks.

1.  If the engine still has the  spark plugs, pull them a look them over.  If they appear to have oil on them you might be looking at ring or value job being necessary (you might want to do that anyway).  Likewise if they have water on them you may be looking at a head gasket problems or worse.

 

 

Fouled plugs

 

 

2.  Most likely you are going to be able to pull the heads but you can remove the value covers. Look at for large mounts of sludge build up.  That indicates other issues as well.

 

Sludge Build up

 

 

3.  If you can drop the oil pan, check the contents for water or coolant contamination.  You can also inspect the oil pump.  Issues there indicate that there may be damage to pistons  and crankshaft.

 

 

Oil Pan Gunk

 

 

Currently I’m looking for a used manual 4 speed for my ’70 Mustang.   Now I don’t have any tips for that yet but I’ll let you know.

Thanks for reading

Tim

Mustang Transmission Swap

This was too good to just pass up and too much to just repeat here.  That’s coming up next for my ’70.

So from http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/09/t5swap/index.php, here is some very good information on upgrading your Mustang’s (Ford’s) transmission.

 

Overdrive transmissions are a great thing. They enable you to significantly improve the gearing and acceleration of your car, while maintaining gas mileage and highway cruisability. Unfortunately overdrives, manual or automatic, weren’t offered in Ford vehicles until the late 70’s. But that doesn’t mean you have to be stuck with the non-overdrive C4’s. C6’s, and manual 4 speeds of the 60’s. Swapping in a late-model overdrive transmission, namely the T5 manual and the AOD automatic, is a straighforward swap for 289, 302, 351 equipped cars. In fact on most early Fords, the swap is so easy it makes you wonder if Ford was thinking ahead. In this article we’ll go over what it takes to swap in a T5 tranmisssion into an early Ford. In future articles we’re go over an AOD swap for early Fords, and also an AOD to T5 swap for late-model Mustangs.


Slight clearancing of the shifter opening in early may be required. We had to do it on our ’67 Mustang, but in a ’65 the T5 lined up perfectly.

Swapping into early Mustangs, Falcons, Mavericks, and Pintos is easy because the hole in the transmision tunnel for the shifter is in about the same spot on all the cars. The swap is also easy for Fox body cars such as the Granada.

For other Fords, namely the full-sized cars, the swap is a bit more difficult because the engine is placed farther forward in relation to the driver. Ford
used modified shifters and/or longer tailhousings to set the shifter back for the original transmissions in these cars. Unfortunately there is no such modification we know of for T5’s.

If your car is currently equipped with a non-overdrive manual transmission (Ford 3spd, 4spd, or Toploader) the swap is as simple as a clutch job, you can use your existing clutch and flywheel, but you’ll need a crossmember and possibly a slip yoke and driveshaft as mentioned below. For cars with automatics you’ll need to first install a clutch pedal and round up the clutch activation parts (either manual clutch linkage or a cable operated clutch.)

We’ve seen the T5 in several Falcons and Comets originally equipped with column shifters. The owner had to punch a hole in the transmission tunnel and fabricate a longer shifter and/or replace the bench seats with bucket seats. Most Ford cars sold with automatic transmissions have factory stamped holes in the firewall for the clutch pushrod or cable. Usually a hard tap from a mallet will knock the stamp out.

For Bronco and Ranger owners, jamesduff.com sells adapters to bolt the T5 to 2.9L and 4.0L engines.

 

Toploader and T5 dimensions
Transmission A B C D F
Ford Toploader (small block) 6.375 13.25 25.375 n/a 5.5
Ford T5 6.9 14.5 24.7 15.4 5.5
Overal length (A+C) Toploader: 31.75 in.
T5: 31.6 in.



Where to find a T5?
The T5 transmission is a manual five-speed transmission manufactured for Ford, by Borg Warner (now Tremec.) The T5 was offered in Mustangs, Thunderbirds, Capris, and possibly other Ford vehicls from 1983 all the way up to 1996, but you have to be careful -there are different specifications for 4-cylinder, 6-cylinder, and V8 cars. What you want is a T5 from a V8 car, ideally a Mustang. The 1983-1989 V8 T5’s are rated at 265 lb.ft. of torque, while the 90-93 T5’s are rated good to 300lb.ft of torque (93 Mustang Cobra T5 is rated for 310 lb.ft.) The difference is in the internal components and also the gearing. See the chart below for gearing differences. The 1994-1995 T5’s are not desirable because the input shaft length and thus bellhousing depth were changed to accomodate the new SN95 Mustang body style. If you do come across one of these dirt cheap the input shaft can be replaced with one from an earlier T5, but it’d have to be a really good deal (read free) to go through the trouble. Finally, we should mention that the T5 is also called the “World Class T5”, but many people incorrectly believe the term World Class refers to a stronger type of T5. All Borg Warner T5’s are considered “World Class”, so don’t rely on that term to indicate the type of T5 you have. The best bet is to find the T5 attached to the car, or with reliable evidence of the car it came out of. If that fails, look for the stamped aluminum tag hanging of one of the tail shaft bolts and use the ID chart to identify the model. Copy the numbers down and call D&D or Hanlon and beg them to tell you what year it’s out of.

While it is best to shoot for the 90-93 T5 due to its increase torque capacity, you shouldn’t pass up a good 83-89 T5, espeically if you’re engine is not heavily modified. We’ve found that T5 strength and longevity is more a factor of its condition and mileage rather than it’s torque rating. A used, high mileage, Cobra T5 will probably shift poorly and give out much sooner than a earlier T5 that came out of grandma’s car. The T5 in Project 11.99 was bought from a wrecked 1990 Mustang 5.0 with 50,000 miles. We’ve had it in the car for nearly five years now, over 400 passes at the strip, and it shifts as crisp as it did on day one.

By the way, always take the bellhousing and block plate if they are available. The T5 swap can be done two ways, using a T5 bellhousing or using an early Ford manual bellhousing. It is much easier and cheaper to use the T5 bell, we’ll explain why below.

What to pay?
Used T5’s can be bought for as cheap as $100 out of a wrecking yard, however we rarely ever see Mustang 5.0’s in public wrecking yards, most of the cars go to specialty dismantelers. You’re better off searching the classifieds and online Ford bulletin boards for guys parting out their Mustang, or perhaps upgrading to stronger transmission wanting to sell the T5 cheap. A fair price for a used, but not abused, less than 80K T5, is between $300 and $500. Any more than that and you should consider buying a rebuilt/refurbished T5 for around $700 from places like D&D or Hanlon. If you want to be extra safe you can buy the T5 new. Both the above sources, as well as Ford Racing Parts and Summit Racing, sell brand new T5 “Z” spec transmissions. The Z spec. transmisison is rated for 330 lb.ft. and sells for around $1300.

Car Shows – Strange Things – Engines

You put WHAT, in that thing?

As I’ve blogged before, I love engines!!!

Another entertaining aspect of car shows is to  see what some people will stuff under  their hoods.

Check these out.

1956 Nomad....what's under the hood?? See below.

If You guessed an LS2 Engine, you'd be correct!!!!

Oh..let’s not forget this guy!!!!

Is that a V8 emblem? Yup!! Is that an MG? Yup!

Yes it's a V8. And no I don't know why!!!

And what would a V8 MG be without………………………………

Of course side exhaust!!!! Yes there is one on the other side too!!

Got any good pics?  Drop them off and I’ll post them up.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

A Word about Windshields – Quality, Installation and Insurance Part 2

I’m going to ruin the ending, but I did end up with a quality install on my wife’s Lexus with quality glass.

Thanks reading.

Tim…………………Ok…just kidding.

The ordeal continued when I told the shoddy installer that I didn’t want them to return and remove the fun house mirror from the font of the Lexus.  This prompted several calls back to my insurance company.  For about two hours I telephonically  (that might not be a word!!!) climbed the corporate ladder  until I got to the “Head of Corporate Glass” (that was  the exact title…).

The individual I spoke to, listened to my story, including the intentional installation of faulty mirror support, and assured me the concern would be taken seriously.  That part went well and the next part was even better, but first have to set it up a bit.

It seems that when the previous windshield was installed I was authorized the original glass because the car was under 3 years old.  That was their policy.  However, since the car was over 3 years old this time, they would not authorize the original glass, unless…I paid a difference of $800.00. (More on the price of glass  in a bit later.)

So I was surprise when the  ‘Head of Corporate Glass’ (I hear this in a booming God-like voice, like when God spoke to Charlton Heston in the famous movie “Mose and the 10 Commandments”) say, “We’ll wave the $800.00 and authorize you original glass.”   I won…I won…I beat the evil insurance company!!!…Oh hold the proverbial horses…the round-up wasn’t exactly over.

She next told me I had to have the same installer put in this ‘quality glass’.   Oh…the horses have stopped.  I did not agree and she insisted, stating that because of the warranty they (the insurance company) had with Mr. Shoddy Glass Inc.  it was required to have them re-install the new piece.   I said that I should have the right to have anyone  put it in and that whatever agreement they (the insurance company) had with them (Mr. Shoddy Glass Inc.) wasn’t my problem.  I also mentioned again their total disregard for the safety and quality which should concern them (the insurance company….ok…do I have to keep lawyer-ing up here?….actually I just want to see how annoying I could be!!!…I sure someone will let me know.)  and they would have paid a lot more if the swinging mirror resulted in an accident.  She still insisted and I asked to be moved up a rung in the corporate ladder and she said there wasn’t a next rung.  I said no again and she said ok.  Ok…let the horses go because this was a complete victory!!!! Score a point for the down trodden masses!!!!

Almost…..it took nearly 3 weeks to get the new glass.  The  first company I selected said they couldn’t order the windshield.  I said, sure you can.  A few day later, they said we can’t find the glass to order.  I called the dealership and got  the part number and even how long it would take to get in (two days).  I gave the installer the information.  One week later still no windshield.  I called the installer back and found that they called the insurance company and someone a bit lower than ‘Head of Corporate Glass’ unauthorized original glass.

So another call to ‘Head of Corporate Glass’ .  I wasn’t able to talk to HER (get it..all caps???)  but the lady I did talk to found the note from  HER and said sure, no problem.  I said “Hold your horses, missy”.  And with that we telephonically (it’ll be a real word when I done with this article!!!) found the guy that “de-authorized” my original glass and while we are all   conference together, had him talk to a 3rd installer and tell them I was authorized… with everybody on the line as witnesses.   Ok…party hat time and no can’t you get back time it took you to read this!!!!

There was one more interesting revelation when I compared the prices of the glass provided by Mr. Shoddy installer, my insurance company preferred vendor,  paid for the glass and what Mr. Speedy (yup that’s what Mr. We Know What We Are Doing installer is officially known as) paid for original.  I know why Mr. Shoddy was preferred.  See below:

Mr. Speedy –  $1350  for original Glass

Mr. Shoddy – $252 for OME glass (There was no extra charge the fun house entertainment.)

Thanks for reading and drop me a note.

Tim

Auto Factoid for Week of 10/10/10

A couple of debuts for this week.

10/12/50 – Kaiser-Fraizer built their 500,000th car – 4 years later they opened up car manufacturing in South America.

 

1950 Kaiser-Frazers

 

 

 

10/13/1902 – Packard Motor Car Co was formed out of the old Ohio Automobile.

 

1902 Packard Run-About

 

 

 

10/15/24 – The original Mr. Government Auto Company Bailout. Mr.Lee Iacocca was born this date.  If that’s all you remember him for, turn your car lover card…this guy rocked it in the car world!!!!  This might change your mind…yea…the Mustang was his baby too.

 

How ya like him now???!!!!!

 

And now for the new arrivals!!!

 

10/14/65 – the Oldsmobile Toronado – a friend of my had one of these when I was in college back in the late 1970’s.  It was my first awareness of a front wheel drive  car.

 

1966 Toronado - Kool factor of 8.5 out of 10.

 

 

And one of my favorites

10/16/58 the Chevy El Camino arrives. Now I’m big fan of those fins!!!  These also spawned  the GMC Sprint and a few other variations.

 

1958 - Fin Heaven

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

 

 

 

 

Auto Factoids for week of Sept 26

 

9/26/1967  Everyone loves this car  AMC’s Javelin the car was in the public’s hands by 1968.  I loved the body style.

 

1968 Javelin

 

 

10/1/1908 – Mr. Ford began selling is Model T

 

Model T Ford – Rag Top

 

(they were all convertibles!!!…just saying!!!)

 

Oh.. you’ll like this one.

10/2/1959 – Chevy introduces the Corvair.  Believe it or not I’ve seen some of the sale footage and they treated it like a jeep.  Chevy had drivers drive up  embankment, up and down streams with water over the tires.  This gave Ford a scare but it wasn’t until they could put together the Mustang did they really have an answer.

 

1959 Corviar.

My Brother-In-Law’s 1965 Monza…very nice car.

 

Thanks for reading

Tim

 

Wrenchin’ Tip for 10-14-10 Back Cut your Intake Valves

If you are work on your older cars engine, there are a good many tricks that you can use save a couple bucks and gain a little horsepower.

This one is an oldie but a good.

Have your intake valves back cut, you’ll get a similar boost as if you use high lift rocker arms or cam.

The procedure is best done by a qualified machinist.  So while you have your engine apart and laying all around our garage on pieces of cardboard (come…you know that’s what happens!!!) have him take a little off the port side of your intake valves.  This creates the same effect as an earlier opening a later closing action like  just a like a the addition of a an upgrade cam.  The lighter valve means less spring pressure is required to control the valve at higher rmps.

A 30 degree cut is what they do on vortex engines.

 

The backcut is at the edge of the normal valve cut.

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Still on Vacation but look what I found!!!!

I’ll be back with some cool stuff so show.

Here one:

Thunderbird - wasting way...going cheap..needs work.