The option that, perhaps, makes the most sense is to rebuild the existing engine. These days there are so many rebuilding scenarios, it can make your head spin and really lighten you wallet. With each one of the scenarios brings with it even more decisions and a host of mathematical calculations.
The major concern is just how bad it might be in the block. You can see much with just the heads removed, but what I could see of the cylinders and piston heads, seemed serviceable. Scored cylinder walls – bad; just trashed bearings – not so bad. This is the first unknown you need to know. From this point you’ll know the cost of just making it run again and how much $$$ you need or have left in the budget for any upgrades.
For me I don’t think I’m in this for just a ‘repair’- e.g. bad bearings – replace them and snap it back together.
Option 1: Rebuild it just like it is. Simply get a $600.00 kit and replace everything and put it back together – same heads, same intake nothing changes other than the knock goes away.
Typical 351C Rebuild Kit
Option 2: Rebuild it better. For my 351C 2v, the simplest way is to add the kit and give it more room to breath. Add a 4 barrel carb and matching intake.
Option 3: Rebuild it bigger. Have the engine bore to 0.030 or 0.040 and find the matching kit (you can buy the rebuild kits to match the new bore) and add a 4 barrel carb and matching intake.
Option 2 and 3 give you more decisions you’ll have to make. How much horse power and torque will this changes make? Can you existing stall converter and transmission handle that increase? (My concern as I have C6 automatic) Will you need to change the gearing in the rear end to optimize the new power? Will this new power impact handling or frame/body? (The concern here keeping that body from twisting/rolling – my Mustang still has the sub-frame – being a unit body – installation of sub-frame connectors is on my list.) You are looking at a few Benjamin’s to make this all happen like it should – all based on the basic rebuild direction.
So these are some of the considerations I’m weight now for #ProjectSportsRoof.
Give me your thoughts?
Thanks for reading.
Tim
1973 Mustang SportsRoof
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part I
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part II
From Reddit : deanprkr 3
fellow 351C owner (71 Torino)
Where are you sourcing the rebuild kit from?
(mine’s running fine but a bit of lifter noise)
Block rebuilding kits are available on many sites JEGS and Summit Racing have them available. Quality kits are important.
From Reddit: dibbuk69
Just keep in mind that Cleveland motors tend to have thin cylinder walls to begin with. Cracked cylinders are common. I wouldnt recommend going more than .030 over on the cylinders.
Yes..miss typed the 0 and .
I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again! Troubleshoot first.
If it is a bearing issue, OPTION ONE is my vote! In two fun weekends you’ll have a motor and personal satisfaction at a low price.
I’m leaning toward Option 2, which is just Option 1 with an intake.