Knock..Knock…Who’s There? It’s the bottom end of your 351 Cleveland!!! Rebuilding.

The option that, perhaps, makes the most sense is to rebuild the existing engine.   These days there are so many rebuilding scenarios, it can make your head spin and really lighten you wallet.  With each one of the scenarios brings with it even more decisions and a host of mathematical calculations.

The major concern is just how bad it might be in the block.  You can see much with just the heads removed, but what I could see of the cylinders and piston heads, seemed serviceable.  Scored cylinder walls – bad; just trashed bearings – not so bad.  This is the first unknown you need to know.  From this point you’ll know the cost of just making it run again and how much $$$ you need or have left in the budget for any upgrades.

For me I don’t think I’m in this for just a ‘repair’-  e.g. bad bearings – replace them and snap it back together.

Option 1: Rebuild it just like it is.  Simply get a $600.00 kit and replace everything and put it back together – same heads, same intake nothing changes other than the knock goes away.

Typical 351C Rebuild Kit

Typical 351C Rebuild Kit

Option 2:  Rebuild it better.  For my 351C  2v, the simplest way is to add the kit and give it more room to breath.  Add a 4 barrel carb and matching intake.

Option 3:  Rebuild it bigger.  Have the engine bore to 0.030 or 0.040 and find the matching kit (you can buy the rebuild kits to match the new bore) and add a 4 barrel carb and matching intake.

Option 2 and 3 give you more decisions you’ll have to make.  How much horse power and torque will this changes make?  Can you existing stall converter and transmission handle that increase? (My concern as I have  C6 automatic)  Will you need to change the gearing in the rear end to optimize the new power?  Will this new power impact handling or frame/body?  (The concern here keeping that body from twisting/rolling – my Mustang still has the sub-frame – being a unit body – installation of sub-frame connectors is on my list.)     You are looking at a few Benjamin’s to make this all happen like it should – all based on the basic rebuild direction.

So these are some of the considerations I’m weight now for #ProjectSportsRoof.

Give me your thoughts?

Thanks for reading.

Tim

1973 Mustang SportsRoof

1973 Mustang SportsRoof

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

projectsportsroof

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part I

I’ve done all the clean up and all the adjustments necessary to get a good reading on the health of the ’72 351C engine in my 1973 Mustang. The next step is to check the compression. First up was to warm the car a bit and then pull the plugs. Here’s what the …

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part II

This is the wrap up on the compression testing for the 1973 Mustang w/ a 1972 351 Cleveland power plant. You’ll might have notices that I referred to the remote tester, which is my code for remote starter…yeah…that’s it!!! All of these tests were dry test and I should have done a …

Hey…A Car Show!!! Mustang II

It’s pretty cool to happen upon a car show in the course of running weekend errands.  I normally have a calendar event for the major shows and/or the ones I plan on attending.  But now and then I see one in passing, and of course I am compelled to stop and usually do.  Sometimes there are some real gems.  By gens  I mean  cars you don’t see at the average car show as they may not be in top condition or even restored at all (that doesn’t stop me) and the owners would enter them.

You don't need shiny paint to go to a car show. Here's #ProjectSportsRoof at it's first car show.

You don’t need shiny paint to go to a car show. Here’s #ProjectSportsRoof at its first car show.

A couple of weeks ago I picked up my son at his place and we took care of some business.  I always have my ‘old car’ radar on and it went off as we passed a little church.  We had finished all of our tasks so I stopped.  There may have been 15 cars in the parking lot with hoods up and doors open.  True to form there were a few cars that one rarely sees at a car show.

This awesome Fox-body Mustang Vert was in the line-up:

Fox-Body Vert

Fox-Body Vert w/ Whale Tail!

Oh MAN!! Look at that plumbing!!!!

Oh MAN!! Look at that plumbing!!!!

 

There was this 1964 Chrysler 300 K.  You don’t see many of these at a show.  Love that it’s a 2 door.

'64 Chrysler 300 K

’64 Chrysler 300 K

Cool Steering Wheel!!

Cool Steering Wheel!!

Here is a rare sight!!!  Mercury Comet Caliente VERT!!!!

This Comet is in O.K.shape

This Comet is in O.K.shape

IMG_20160409_095300697

This cars is nicely preserved and a little body work has been done, but still very nice car.

But this next car was my favorite as unlikely as that may seem, I’d buy this car and I’d show it big time!!!  Check out this 1974 Mustang II:

I think it's a sharp little car!!!

I think it’s a sharp little car!!!

IMG_20160409_094934783

Nice wheels!!!!

Yeah..that's a V8 - 302!!

Yeah..that’s a V8 – 302!!

Still lots of room under that hood.

Still lots of room under that hood.

Interior is so awesome.

Interior is so awesome.

 

You can tell that this car was stripped and restored.  It was painted with, even the interior,  with a white rhino lining/satin like paint.  It is just amazing and I’m was impressed.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Check out these other post for Mustang II:

The Mustang II – Say What?
http://wp.me/pKHNM-uY

Mustang Muscle in the Mid 70’s
http://www.average-guys-car-restoration-mods-racing.com/mustang-muscle-in-the-mid-70s/

Feature Car – 1978 King Cobra
http://www.average-guys-car-restoration-mods-racing.com/feature-car-1978-king-cobra/

 

 

Knock..Knock…Who’s There? It’s the bottom end of your 351 Cleveland!!!

After spending $$$ to get my 2v heads done right and after driving my 73 Stang for about 50 miles, the Cleveland has developed  a knock in the bottom half of the engine.

It’s not uncommon when restoring cars that an undiscovered issue pops up and changes the entire project plan.  But the dilemma I have now has multiple facets.

First there’s what to do about the engine.  Rebuild it if possible? Replace with a short block, reusing the 2v heads?  Buy a crate engine? Or set it on fire in the driveway?  Each one of these options have it’s own inherent hurdles and impacts the timeline differently.

Second there’s issue with the old conundrum “Well as long as….I might as well do the ….”  In this case it read like this… “As long as the engine out, I should, really, redo the engine bay.”  That’s has is own timeline with the cleaning and sanding and priming and painting and replacing clips/fastener….etc.

So let’s discuss the engine.

There are a few “known knowns” (thank you Donald Rumsfeld!!!):

  1. The current 351C engine isn’t original to the car – in fact the car was born with 302. Why is that important?   I don’t have to worry about the matching numbers thing,  that ship sailed sometime ago.  Basically anything goes.
  2. Not rebuilding/replacing is not an option.
  3. Budget.  Although there is no set dollar amount, there is restraint how much can be spend in a given time.

Then there are the “known unknowns”

  1. Is it the cam?
  2. Is it just the bearings?
  3. Are the cylinder walls serviceable?
  4. What do I want this engine to be?

Options:  (just a few)

Option 1:   A friend of mine suggested a crate engine – just order one from Summitt Racing or Jegs.  Make all the power I want.

Ford Racing 363 C.I.D. 500 HP Boss Crate Engines

Ford Racing 363 C.I.D. 500 HP Boss Crate Engines – $8439.97

– Discussion:  $$$ (Could stop right there with this one.)  Getting a 400+ HP turn-key crate would be just awesome.  In my option that is what these Mustangs were meant to be. (ching-ching)   Getting tons of power to the rear wheels with the current  automatic C6 transmission will required a possible rebuild and an upgraded torque converter.  (ching-ching again).  But having a Cleveland in the engine bay is way cool!!  I grew up in GM family… there weren’t a lot of discussion about Ford product and anytime I heard “Ford talk” a 351 Cleveland engine was mentioned.   I do like the look of it under the hood the are wider than the Windsor family of motors.  Keeping it a 351C V2 will be less expensive and you can make good power from it if you do it right.

– Conclusion for Option 1:   Not gonna happen!!

Option 2:  Find a good used 351C and install that

– Discussion:   This is a good possibility.  That’s already happened to #ProjectSportsRoof.  The 302 was replaced with a 351 (whether it was a Windsor or Cleveland is not known) as this was the engine the previous owner hauled it out of a field with.  As it turned out that engine was seized and the current engine was found and installed (along with the used C6 trans).   It may be tough to find one.  If and when you do the mileage shouldn’t be a known unknown and you need to determine the condition as best you can by listening to it run.  If it is just sitting on the shelf,  would you perform a “trust-fall” with the seller?  Bottom line is a used engine “is like a box of chocolates”…you might end right back up where you are now.  Frankly this would be my last option.

-Conclusion for Option 2:  A weak maybe.

Coming up next – the Rebuild option.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Tim

 

Tappit-3

1973 Mustang SportsRoof – Floor Pans Getting To It! – Part Four

Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof.   I’m about the finish the cuts and fitting for the  right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!!

Final Fit for foot-well.

Final Fit for foot-well.

This video is pretty comprehensive so I’m just going to just let it roll.

 

A couple of things worth noting.  The “flap” what was clearly not going to work and leaving the sheet metal running up the side of the transmission/drive shaft tunnel was going to give too much flex in that panel, as the welds would be pretty high.  It’s important to have that solid because as most must guys and gals know the Mustang of this vintage only have sub-frames which lease the floor as the most important body stabilization part of the car.   I will eventually put sub-frame connectors under this beast.

In case you are wondering what that electrical wiring is to the right of foot-well that is for the seat belt switch which when pressure is applied to the seat bottom there must be a connection completed by the seat-belt male end and female end to turn off the “Seat Belt” light and or buzzer.

I have a lot more coming up on the floor pans so stay tuned!!!!

Thanks for reading.

Tim

1973 Mustang SportsRoof

1973 Mustang SportsRoof

 

 

 

 

 

vintage muscle car | Tumblr

Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. We beginning the actual work on the vacuum system on the projects 351C starting with the valve assembly distributor ( the …

Ford Mustang Shelby – Remote Controlled – LEGO Like

This pretty cool.  I found it on Reddit r/Mustang sub-directory.   After I finish #ProjectSportsRoof – I may just build one of these!!!

Check out the well constructed LEGO ‘Stang:

 

 

These are the construction instructions:

http://www.sheepo.es/2014/01/ford-mustang-shelby-gt500-instructions.html

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

1973 Mustang SportsRoof

1973 Mustang SportsRoof

 

 

Engine Mini-Series – Ford’s Small Block V8s Part I

I haven’t done a Engine Mini-Series in sometime, I find readers like the Engine Line Up posts a lot, so I’ve stuck with that.  They are quick and fun pieces to research and write.

SEE A NOTED DEVIATION IN THE COMMENTS BELOW.

I received a request from a reader  (motown_missile) from the /r/classiccar subdirectory over on Reddit, who read my latest Engine Line UP post, for something on Ford small block V8’s specifically  the 221, 260 and 289 engines.  So I thought yeah that’s a great idea!!! But it didn’t really fit how I structure the Engine Line Up posts and then I recalled doing these mini-series and that fits the request.  Thanks motown_missile!!!!

Now the Ford small block V8 label (also called the “90 Degree V8s”) covers a few rare engines (limited production/limited use), one of the most iconic and some real workhorses.  The engines that fall under this designation are 221, 255, 260, 289 and yes the 302 and even the 351 Windsor (not the Cleveland).  I’ll cover each one in separate posts.

The Ford small blocks were designed the end of the 1950’s put in to production cars in 1962  the first and smallest (20 inches across and only 475 lbs) and it displaced 221 cubic inches and so designated as the 221.

The 221, in 1962,  had a compression ratio of 8.7:1 with a bore and stroke respectively of 3.50 x 2.87.  It sported two-bolt main-bearing, cast nodular crankshaft (only 37 lbs), cast aluminum pistons, hydraulic camshaft and individually mounted iron rockers.  The cylinder heads were wedge-shaped and the intake valves were 1.59 in. and the exhaust valves were 1.39  This was all topped off with a cast iron two barrel intake manifold and it produced about 143 hp @ 4,500 rmp and 217 foot lbs of torque @ 2200 rpm.  For 1963 it remained about the same with a slight increase in the bore and stroke (3.75×3.30 inches) producing a compression ratio of 8.8:1 and 145 hp.   Both years were topped with Holley carbs.

The 221 is one of the rarest small block.  It saw only 2 years of production use (1962 and 1963) and you could find it in the Ford Fairlanes and Mercury Meteor.  If you want to know if your 62-63 Fairlane or Mete0r originally had a 221 check the VIN for the code L ( C – 1962 export or 3 for 1963 export).

Nicely painted 221 V8

Nicely painted 221 V8

1962 Mercury Meteor 33

1962 Mercury Meteor 33

1963 Ford Fairlane

1963 Ford Fairlane

 

Next up will be the 255.

Thanks for reading and if you have any input or pic of your own 221, drop me a note a AGCarRestoration@cox.net.  Comments always welcome!!!

 

Tim

Out and About!!! #ProjectSportsRoof

Out and About!!!
#ProjectSportsRoof

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ford 221 v8 engine

1973 Mustang SportsRoof – Floor Pans Getting To It! – Part Two

Hey, welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof (1973 Mustang).  We are working through the rusted floor pans and I’m about to make the cut for removing rust from the right rear foot-well.

Quick note about the video sequence.  As executive director, camera guy (well smart phone guy) and film editor (is that still a real thing?), I don’t always plan out the steps like you might see on a TV show.  (There goes my chances of being on Counting Cars – I’ve got a better chance of being a walk-on-the-set zombie on the Walking Dead – I love both of those shows!!!! ) Perfect example is in the next few posts and videos.  Instead of stripping out all the carpeting, I made a cut along the tunnel on the right side and just removed that carpet.  You can clearly see that.   Then I removed the rust from the foot-well (you’ll see that below) and then worked on cutting the re-pop floor patch.

That went so well, I felt confident enough to remove the driver’s seat and the rest of the carpeting.  So when I show that video you’ll notice both patch panels on the right side are fitted.  There just no ‘do overs’ on this project.

Here are the next two videos.  By the way you can see all the videos on my YouTube channel  just search for #ProjectSportsRoof and you’ll find most of them.

 

 

Once again in the video I mention getting the replacement pan for under the rear seat – above the muffler.  However, as I mentioned previously that portion of the floor is not reproduced.

More floor panel work coming up.  If you have comments or tips/hints use the comment box below.  Love to hear from you.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof

Out and About!!! #ProjectSportsRoof

Out and About!!!
#ProjectSportsRoof

 

 

 

 

 

 

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression, Rods and Heads

Thanks for check in on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you remember a of couple months back, shortly after bringing the ’73 Mustang home, I conducted a compression test on all the cylinders.  The 351C was running rough (to put it mildly) and smoked like a pile of tires on fire (only the smoke …

 

 

1973 Mustang SportsRoof – Floor Pans Getting To It! – Part One

The last three post we basically a run down of the extent of the rust damage in the floor pan areas on #ProjectSportsRoof.  As you saw the right side was bad, especially the under the rear seat on that side and the left side not as bad.   Interesting enough it ended up being about the same work for both foot wells and a lot work for the whole under the rear seat.  (You’ll notice in at least one of the videos I mentioned that all I needed to do was to buy the panel for under the rear seat – but I was wrong.  Those just are reproduced.  What I ended up doing was purchasing a 3rd foot well pan and “modifying” that to get the whole patched.)

As this is my first time actually doing floor pans, I did a lot of “making sure” up front work to limited the size of the mistakes I might make.  Last thing I needed to do was cut in the wrong place or make the opening to big.  As you know the Mustangs of that era only had  sub-frames and the floor for the most part were what held them together.  A major screw up there and you’ve weakened the structure and then it’s body off complete floor replacement – NOT IN THE BUDGET!!!

Here’s some of the preliminary work.

 

So of course there isn’t a rear panel (see above) and the drain in the panel is not plugged with a rubber stopper, but with a metal screw down plate – sealed with seam sealer.

I worked the left side first (some I could keep the car mobile – for pulling in and out of the garage) so I left the driver’s seat and most of the carpet in place.

 

Coming up is the first cuts of the right side floor pan and fitting of the replacement panel.

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof

projectsportsroofprojectsportsroof

 

 

 

 

1973 Mustang Sports Roof – Floor Pan Discovery – Part Two – Incidental Find

As with most car restoration projects discovering what needs to be worked on and to what extent is an experience to say the least.  Sometimes that discovery is a bit disheartening like the rust to floor pans on the right side, sometimes is a major relief  and sometimes it’s cool.

As I began removing carpet – which I’m now sure was 33 years old, it uncovered the normal dirt, pens, papers (no build sheet… bummer) and just about all the normal things that slide between the seat cushions and work their way under the carpet.  That can show a lot about its previous owners and how the car was used.

Among these things are coins and #ProjectSportsRoof had an abundance of lost change.   The first coin I found was a nickel.  It was under the underlayment which I found to be a tough place for nickel to have worked its way.   Interesting enough it was dated 1973.

1973 Jefferson Nickel.  Placed by a a worker at the factory?  hmmmm....

1973 Jefferson Nickel. Placed by a a worker at the factory? hmmmm….

This reminded me of an often told tail of auto workers leaving tokens of some sort in an inconspicuous place.  Wouldn’t that be interesting.

Over all nearly $30.00 in coins were found and of those 3 were from 1973 (a nickel, a quarter and a penny).  With a huge cap between 1979 and the 2005 (perhaps indicating it’s break in service when the car was left in a field, junked and then saved.

Someone in the Ford factory back in the day leave this 1973 Jefferson nickel so that someone years later might find it?   Interest thought!!!

Thanks for reading.

Tim

projectsportsroof

1973 Mustang Sports Roof – Floor Pan Discovery – Part One

2 days ago Thanks for following along with #ProjectSportsRoof. Over the next couple of weeks (giving myself a lot of time to get this all down in the blog) …
restored-cars | Tumblr

Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. We beginning the actual work on the vacuum system on the projects 351C starting with the valve assembly distributor ( the …

 

1973 Mustang Sports Roof – Floor Pan Discovery – Part One

Thanks for following along with #ProjectSportsRoof.  Over the next couple of weeks (giving myself a lot of time to get this all down in the blog) I’m going to take you through my process for repairing the floors in the 1973 Mustang.  I’ll be interrupted by  (air quotes)REAL (end air quotes) work and a couple of car shows between now and then.

As much as I’d like to say I was aware of the rust on the floor of the Sports Roof, I can’t.    I really missed seeing the extent of the damage.  Needless to say I was a bit depressed when I brought it home and climbed in the back seat and notices the floor seemed a bit….’crunchy’.

Take a look at these videos:

You might be able to tell by my voice that I wasn’t overjoyed with the condition of the passenger side floor.  To make matters worse I eventually found out they don’t reproduce a patch for under the rear seat for the 1973 Sports Roof.  More to come on that in a future post.

Just to issue a reminder as you might be wondering why you see the back seat now in the car as in the previous video it was out, but my goal is to have this as a rolling project and able to at least speed on down to the local petrol station fill it up and grab a Pepsi. (You just can’t work on a car without a Pepsi!!! – Hey maybe they’ll sponsor this rebuild and I’ll change the license plate to read “1973DrinkRealSugarPepsi”.)

O.K. so if you were listening closely you’d realize that I started the floors back in Dec (2015) and it’s now the last day of the Feb 2016 and I’m just getting to post this up now.  So it’s taken me a good chunk of time to do this all by hand – including all the cutting with just a hand-held dremel and some metal snips.

I appreciate any and all comments so let ’em fly!!!!

BTW day on this Leap Year day – we’ve surpassed 20,000 registered user on this blog, thanks everyone!!!

Thanks for reading.

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof

 

projectsportsroof

1973 Mustang Sports Roof – Vacuum System Part IV

1 day ago This will be a longer post as I finish up the vacuum system on #ProjectSportsRoof , the 1973 Mustang Sports Roof. We have to make a repair, …