I’ve mentioned a few times here on Average Guy’s Car Restoration the great work that Marti Auto Works does to help car owners discover information about their Mustangs and other Fords that are important to being able to restore the cars and even help establish a value. They own the rights to the Ford databases and records prior to 1974 (some models up to 1989). These guys have everything..I mean everything. Give them the VIN number and they’ll pile on the data (it’s not free but very reasonable). They are authorized by Ford to reproduce window stickers and Protector Plates (identification plates that go on the inside door jamb) and more.
I didn’t purchase the window sticker for 1970 Mustang but I did for #ProjectSportsRoof. Check it out:
1973 Mustang SportsRoof Window Sticker.
That’s pretty cool but if you want the coolest thing (in my opinion) that they offer it is this:
The original Invoice!!!
This is the original – THE ORIGINAL – not a copy, not a reproduction – but the original – complete with pen/pencil marks and water stains – tucked way in a folder – invoice for my car. That is beyond awesome. The edges of the form didn’t make it into the scan but it all there.
The fact that it still exist is unbelievable and that I was able to purchase was great. It’s a great piece to have and I couldn’t appreciate the folks at Marti Auto Works more!!!!!
Check out the cost of 10 gallons of gas – $4.00!!!
Thanks for reading
You can find Marti Auto Works @ http://www.martiauto.com/
While the block is out for machining I can turn my attention to one of the MANY other sub-projects on #ProjectSportsRoof.
If you’ve followed the blog you know that I’ve tackled the heater box (more to come on that) and as well as cleaning up the engine bay. As you’ve seen the interior needs work. I’ve completed floor pans (sealed/coated), new under-layment and new carpet. That was just the beginning, so much more to do on the inside.
One thing that makes restoring the interior go a bit smoother is having all the little things like screws and other fasteners. That’s where AMK Products comes in.
I saw an AMK commercial on one of the car restoration shows.
It seems that car culture here in Arizona is everywhere. (Or is it just me?) I always have my eye peeled for cool cars and car artifacts, I’m sure my wife thinks I need therapy, sometimes they pop up in surprising places.
In a recent trip to the cool Southern Arizona town of Bisbee – which is right next door to Lowell, AZ (check out my post – click – Road Tripping – Cars – Lowell, Az. we ran across something unique.
Bisbee is a mining town build, mostly, on the side of a mountain. One of its main attractions are the many stairs that you can climb to reach different street levels.
So many stairs that they hold the Bisbee 1000 – The Great Stair Climb annually an it’s a big deal!!
Well the stairs we claimed only number 181 and well.. they are pretty steep. As we climbed I had to stop twice…to view the follow….not because I was winded…much!!!
Thanks for checking in on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m working on the heater box and it is now out from under the dash.
Although the box was easy to remove, unfortunately that might have been because the two brackets that hold the unit to the firewall were broken and dropped down only hanging by the A/C block still sticking through slot in the firewall.
Take a look:
The rust isn’t too bad. I’ll clean that up and see how much damage exist, cut out what I can and make a patch for it. You can clearly see the condition of the brackets and the box.
Maybe one of the worse task to tackle on a car is the heater core. In particular on some older cars. In most cases you have to remove the entire dash. I know this because when the heater core sprung a leak in my 1974 Cobra Jet Torino, I didn’t have the time to fix it. I took it to a shop and the cost was hefty.
Since I’m doing a lot more of my own work on #ProjectSportRoof and I’m going to dive in and replace the heater core and like the Torino it is an A/C car.
Now the goal is to attempt to remove the box without taking the entire dash out – that is a huge time sync and it leads down the road of ” since I have it out, I might as well fix…”.
I refer to the heater box as the portion to the right of the blower, there are some references that include the blower as well. There are only 3 bolts holding the heater box in place, two are behind the unit and poke through the firewall and one is in the front. I’m hoping the rest is just getting it in the right angle to pull it out.
I don’t have a camera guy only a small tri-pod that I can set in limited flat spots and record what I can.
HINT: Remove the passenger seat, it sure does help.
Here we go:
Coming up we’ll take a close look at the box, access what needs to be done.
Thanks for check in on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you remember a of couple months back, shortly after bringing the ’73 Mustang home, I conducted a compression test on all the cylinders. The 351C was running rough (to put it mildly) and smoked like a pile of tires on fire (only the smoke …
Well we are finally at the next to last post for the tear down of my 1973 Mustang SportsRoof 351 Cleveland. Everything has been removed and we can not get a look at the last piece of the puzzle in figuring out what needs to be done to make this thing run again.
Take a look at the cylinders.
All the indications are that this engine was oil starved at some point. I’m sure it was a result of the valve supporting the #2 cylinder being fired shut, but that is still just a guess.
If you look back at earlier posts, I waffled between guessing if this Cleveland had been apart and worked on. Well by the sight of the cross-hatching it’s clear that the cylinders have been worked before and I’m guessing the rings are well.
Next the block, crank and cam are headed off to a machine shop and things become very clear after the experts look at this 351C.
Welcome to #ProjectSportsRoof and the seeming never ending processing of tearing down the 351C. We are in the final stages and I wanted to show you the crank and cam condition. I put together the video below.
As you can see the crank is not in great shape and the cam is a bit worn. The crank is going to have to be turned and the cam might be beyond polishing.
Leaving the flange on was a time set back as I had to stabilize the engine with the hoist so that I could unbolt it from the engine stand. I had intended to drop it on an engine cradle but I hadn’t even un-boxed it yet so I removed the flange and the flex plate and bolted it back on the engine stand.
It’s now clear that the engine had severe oil starvation at some point and this caused all the damage – ring wear in the cylinders (you’ll see that coming up), severe wear crank and main bearings.
It just about time to get this block off to the machine shop. I’m going to have them do some measurements for me and help decide what needs to be done to save this engine.
I have a couple more posts for the tear down and those are coming up.