Often if you get the right size radiator or heater hose it will be a tight fit(eerrrkkk….don’t tighten the clamp first!!!!….just kidding…eeerrrkk) getting it over metal fittings. You can buy them bigger but you are asking for leaks!!!! Here are a couple of tips. One I’ve used and the other I haven’t tried yet.
1. I live in Arizona, and it’s hot here and normally if you are going to have problems it will be from over heating in the summer time. I’ll take the hose and leave it on the concrete driveway for a while in the hot sun. That often softens it up enough to slip on.
2. This one I have not tried. If you have clear wire-pulling compound, you can rub a light amount around the inside of the hoses and it will slide right on. Here is a link where you can find some. http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/dept_id_608.htm
Thanks for reading.
Don’t forget our project car contest. $100.00 online shopping gift card to your favorite auto parts web site.
So if UPS has its act together I should be getting a set of valve cover gasket and engine paint to repaint the Valve covers and installing them all on Saturday and part of Sunday if necessary.
I could have got the gaskets locally, but only in cork. What I’ll never understand is the thought behind using cork in cars where the average engine coolant temperature is over 200 degrees. Yeah..really.
The spec book on the 1984 C4 Crossfire engine has the thermostat requirement at 195 (degrees). That means the engine has to reach nearly 200 degrees before the thermostat opens and allows the coolant to flow. What more the Crossfire engine is came equiped with an electronic fan for the radiator and the is factory set to come on when the temp reaches 223 degrees.
Now that’s pretty hot for an engine. Rarely does my corvette digital temp gage find it’s self under 200 degree during while operating, it normally round 210.
So knowing that, Chevy still put cork valve cover gaskets on the car. If you’ve ever worked with those, you know that if the engine runs hot, they will eventually “cook” on and dry out and leak. So I went with…. errrkk…. cut/paste “Ultra-Seal material provides a positive seal through controlled swelling of the gasket once exposed to hot engine oil. The polymers used in Ultra-20 also ensure gaskets will not harden and fall apart like others can. Gaskets are coated with an easy release material which helps prevent tearing when the valve covers are removed.”…end errrk and cut/paste.
The painting shouldn’t be a problem, it’s just to spruce them, but I’ll need to prepare them. They are textured magnesium and can take a lot of heat but they do stain easily. I’ll show close-ups of the before and after.
Actually you can see some of it here.
errrkkk….Normally my engine isn’t this awful looking. But it’s been a wetter than normal winter and I haven’t kept up with it like I should. Plus I haven’t been too worried about, know that I had to do these gaskets and hopefully, soon, I’ll be putting on the newly designed Crossfire intake.
Hey..don’t forget the Project Car Contest $100 online gift car to an auto parts house.
I’ve been think about doing this but the rules seem a bit tough to come up with. But I’ll give this a try.
I’m looking for some project car posts from the readers. Your projects. Anything from a huge wreck of car project to something smaller (bigger then an oil change). It has to be your car and you are doing “some” of the work on it. That the only hard and fast rule.
I’ll need a couple photos and some brief details. You can post them up here or find me on Facebook and post them there or email them to me (timsweet@cox.net). I’ll post them here and then on my website (www.tucsoncarevents.com) for everyone to look at.
If I get enough entries I’m pick a car of the week and then out of the we’ll vote on the car of the month (if I don’t get votes posted up I’ll have one of my regular readers pick it. The winner the car of the month gets a $100.00 online gift card to an auto parts dealer (Summit Racing or even tailored to your car). Simple as that.
So let’s get started. Remember anything from a total wreck to just a transmission swap, body work, paint, interior upgrade, hood swap. That all works. It doesn’t have to be done and I don’t need a before and after, just what you are working on.
I’ll run this until I get at least four to choose from, then we’ll vote.
Note: If you noticed my site is not commercial, there are no ads, no click through links, no pop ups. It’s just me type to hear myself type and a few of you reading it. I like it that way.
So let me finish this up. After replacing the bulbs and clean up a little it was time to put the new pad back in place.
But before I want to touch on point I made in a previous entry. It was about planning and how important it can be to a project in both saving time and $$$. Unfortunately for this project I planned too late. (OK…fine…just trying to soften blow to my ego.) I remembered that I needed to order the two interior moldings for the A pillar (the post on either side of the windshield).
See pic
It now the ugliest thing on the Mustang. If I planned properly I would have ordered the molding when I ordered the dash pad, remembering that these actually lay underneath the that pad. So I did remember the other day…and figure..I’d order them and rush the postage. Well that didn’t work out too well..they are now on back other for 10 days or so. Since I couldn’t keep my average garage tied up that long I when head and put the pad back on.
eeerrrrrkkk…..a couple words about replacement parts. If you remember I said if you can get the part that are reproduced using the original tooling do so and that is good advice (or else I would have typed it 🙂 ) Quick story, I purchase some interior door handles re-enforcement for my C4 and found them to be ill-fitting unless I re-drilled the screw holes…which I did and they worked fine. …end of eeerrrrrk. But even the original tooling isn’t perfect. This dash pad was no different..you’ll see in a second.
I had originally planned to replace the front speaker (under the dash pad) but the speakers I had wouldn’t fit the frame work. The old speaker was so dried out that when I touched the cone it fell part.
First thing I notices was that the covering on the back of the new pad was coming up in places. I’m guessing the adhesive was missed in that spot. I was concerned that it would start peeling so I decided to glue it down. It would take over night to dry so I lost an evening there. Here are some pics.
Here you can see the covering did not adhere to the pad.
Some clear Liquid Nails and two clamp held it nicely and left overnight to dry
I placed the new dash pad in place and checked to see how well the holes lined up. If you recall there were two brackets (hidden behind trim) on the font of the pad. On the new pad they had to be “adjusted” to line up the existing screw holes.
Next two issues were annoying but easily remedies. The was extra material block the holes on the on the bracket on the front and there were no holes punched in the upper screw holes.
Screw holes missing.
I trimmed the excess the covering over the brackets and for the missing screw holes I came in from the back side and punched them through.
The final assembly was easy enough.
Here is the final few picks.
Final Pic 1
Final Pic 2
And
Final Pic 3
and the before:
Before Pic 1
Ok..it wasn’t rocket surgery or brain science but a necessary job, when restoring a car.
Thanks for ready..your comments and feedback are always desired.
Well after the bout of bad video uploads I decided to stick with photos for the rest of this project.
This blog entry (I like the sound of that…’blog entry’) I’ll show some pic of the area behind the dash and the removal of the gage panel and bulb replacement.
As I suspected and as to be expected, the dash and gages have been out of this car before. No big deal, it 40 years!!! Clearing you can tell that because the screws are not matching that hold the gages in.
Right side of the gage cluster had philips screw with washer.
After the dash pad was removed there were really only 2 screw left that held the panel/cluster in place – seen above and below.
The Left side was not a philips
After these were removed the gage panel/cluster (ok….I’m just going to call it a gage panel…if you like cluster…read as “cluster”). The only thing holding it in were two connections to the wiring harness. Those just clip together..sorry….I had those on video… and pull off easily.
Part of the wiring harness
As you can see other than just being dusty, all the wiring was in good shape. I had expected some issue due to age, but nope..not a one. (That’s not a complaint…no way…I hate electrical work…..I had a bad experience 🙁 )
This pic is of the panel on the right side of the and there is a LOT of space behind there. A cd changer should slide back there as well as adding a dvd player to the plastic panel. No I don’t believe I would, actually add one…..hmmmm…..I guess if someone donated an item I might consider putting it in…..or not.
The right side panel...lots of empty space.
Look at that room...for a donated dvd player....:)
So I did blew that out to get rid of some of the dust and wiped it down with citrus cleaner.
As I removed the two screws from the panel I thought it would pull right out but nope..the cover for the steering column had to be removed first. Simple enough.
Cover for the steering column
Then……( insert…dooms day music)…a piece fell out!!!!! See below
queue the dooms day music...the loose piece.
Ok..not really a big deal. It was just a clip that held the to pieces of the steering column cover together. It screwed back in slide of the two ends.
Now I didn’t take the gage panel out of the car didn’t really need to since the wiring was all fine. I pulled it out enough to allow my had to go behind and pull out the bulbs.
The position of one bulb.
Here is what the bulb and socket look like, together and apart.
Bulb and Socket
Bulb removed from socket
They come out of the housing by a simple twist. The socket has two copper conductors (you can see them in the pic above…one on each side) that come into contact with the electrical ribbon and provide the power to the bulb. Most of the bulbs were still functional, very dusty..but I replaced them all.
Ok that’s about if this “blog entry” (come on..you like it too!!!…say it with me “blog entry”….I CAN’T HEAR YOU!!!!….BLOG ENTRY!!)
I’ve actually placed it all back together today and I’ll post more tomorrow. But you want to see it before that, I’m driving it to work tomorrow…it not that long of a drive to Tucson…come down…I’ll spring for lunch….. 🙂
This last is the rest of the removal. I tossed a little humor in there about feed my son Ryan only if we worked for the meal. Not sure he thought that was too humorous..but I’m his Dad..he has to deal with me. 🙂
So the process was fairly straight forward. Only thing not obvious was the removal of two trim pieces that hid the front bracket.
Philips screw..wow how ugly was that old dash???
Top screw removal
There were 3 philips screws along the dash next to the windshield. A nice long screw driver worked nicely. The holes in the dash cover for the screw were pretty deteriorated, but it was good do know that the dash was really metal covered with the padded vinyl so the screw would hold forever.
passenger side screws – remove and done!
There were 4 more screw on the passenger’s side. Now if this were a Mach I it would have a clock located there, but instead there is just a plastic panel. You could actually place a LCD monitor there for DVD player. The panel is below:
passenger’s Side Panel
The next set of two screws that needed to come up were located above the radio. These were a bit awkward to remove. But they weren’t philips screws..that pieced together with what we found after taking the dash pad out led to a conclusion of…well I’ll hold off mentioning that until I give you the other piece.
Arrows show the position of the two screws
After removing these two “non-philips” screws (flat) the dash pad would lean forward and you’d think it would pop right off …but nope!!! The next photos show why.
Dash Pad leaning forward.
Additional Trim piece that needed to be removed.
One screw and off it came.
Caption is wrong here the side screw was removed but there was still one below.
Bottom screw had to just be loosened and the pieces sliped off
One this pieces of trim was removed you can see the screw/bolt that need to be removed.
Not a great pic..but you get the idea.
One on each side and the dash pad was ready to go. Check out the videos. If the videos don’t work..let me know.
I enlisted the help of my son Ryan. He was over for dinner and he lent me hand, so I could film as well.
This first video shows us discovering the front brace hidden under the trim piece.
Here is the backside of dash pad.
The paper tag on the bottom of the dash pad.
Reading that you can see the date of 1972 on the tag. Since the Mustang is a 1970, the date doesn’t make sense. Adding that the screws near the radio that don’t match (straight vs. philip for the rest) I wondering if the dash wasn’t replaced. The original owners didn’t mention it, but there was no real reason too. This could mean that the dash was replaced with what appears to be NOS (new old stock) (from 1972)..that’s a possibility. I’ll do some more research just to find out.
The last few pics are of the other markings.
The two eights – one upper in maker and the one in the glue.
Parts code perhaps 3 24 (d) 2
Sorry..that one’s upside down. 🙂
The original Ford speaker.
Speaker with part number.
So what’s next? I’ll check out the wiring and pull the gages if I need to for repair (although all the gages are working fine). Oh..yeah..do a bulb replacement.
